Highlights
- Optimal acclimatization with daytrips to Laguna Wilcacocha and Laguna Churup
- Alpamayo – the most beautiful mountain in the world (5’947m)
- Huascaran – Peru’s highest mountain (6’768m)
Character
For acclimatization we start with two day trips to the lagoons Wilcacocha and Churup. The Huascaran is with its crevasses, danger of ice avalanches and steep grades with changing ice conditions not entirely safe. The Nevado Alpamayo is technically much more difficult. Ice climbing difficulties of up to 60° steepness can be overcome in the strikingly rippled south-west face, which however are considerably facilitated by fixed ropes.
Requirements
The Alpamayo & Huascaran Expedition is only suitable for experienced climbers. The expedition is challenging and strenuous. Due to the height alone it entails certain risks. Very good physical condition, team spirit and willingness to leave your comfort zone are essential. The participants need to be able to move through difficult terrain (snow, ice, rock) independently and safely. You must know your own limits and be ready to retreat if needed.
Best Season
The best time for this expedition is from June to August. It is usually sunny and warm during this time. Due to the altitude, the nights can be quite cold (to minus 5 ° C). At base camp temperatures of up to -10 ° C must be expected. At the high camps, temperatures can reach -25 ° C. Strong winds can happen at any time of the year, especially on the highest mountains, but are somewhat more likely by the end of the season.
Extra Days
Individual connection programs with Machu Picchu, Colca Canyon and much more are possible. Contact us!
What is included in this tour?
Items that are included in the cost of tour price.
- Organisation of the entire expedition
- Information meeting in Huaraz
- All transports according to itinerary
- Bus ride Lima – Huaraz – Lima
- Accommodation in Lima and Huaraz
- Acclimatization program according to itinerary
- Entrance fees to Huascaran National Park
- Certified and experienced mountain guide (Spanish/English)
- Transport of the group equipment to basecamps and back
- Porters to help up to the high camps
- Cook and assistant
- All meals during the expedition
- Tent (2 or 3 person)
- Group tent
- Toilet tent
- High mountain stoves, gas and cooking utensils
- First aid kit and oxygen
- Fixed ropes, mountain ropes, ice screws, etc
What is included in this tour?
Items that are not included in the cost of tour price.
- Meals in Lima and Huaraz
- Alcoholic drinks
- Personal equipment
- Medical care or insurance
- Emergency rescue or evacuation
- Additional expenses as a result of leaving the expedition early
- Travel insurance
- Flights
- Extra porters
- Tips (optional)
Day 1: Acclimatization hike to Laguna Wilcacocha
We pick you up at the hotel and drive south to the Santa Cruz bridge. Here begins our hike through the picturesque highlands and small Andean villages. We slowly ascend to the Laguna Wilcacocha (3’700m), where we enjoy a 360° panoramic view of the whole Cordillera Blanca. We walk the same way back to the bridge, where our transport waits and brings us back to Huaraz.
- Driving time: 20 minutes
- Hiking time: 4 hours
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch
- Accommodation: Hotel
Day 2: Acclimatization hike to Laguna Churup
We drive from Huaraz to Pitec (3’850m) passing through the traditional villages of Unchus and Llupa. After entering the national park we start ascending by following the path over a long ridge. The final 100m to the lake scrambling up a steep rock gully which some people may find difficult. Return to Huaraz.
- Driving time: 2 hours
- Hiking time: 6 hours
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch
- Accommodation: Hotel
Day 3: Huaraz - Santa Cruz Valley
Off to Alpamayo! We drive through the Santa Cruz Valley to Cashapampa (3,050m). Here we meet our donkey drivers and load our luggage. On the Santa Cruz Trek we hike up to our first camp Ichicoccha (3.900m). Here we spend the first night at campsite.
- Hiking time: 4 hours
- Elevation gain: ↑ 900m
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, tea time, dinner
- Accommodation: Tent
Day 4: Through the Santa Cruz valley to Alpamayo Basecamp
After breakfast we leave our campsite and continue on into the valley. On the way we pass the Laguna Jatuncocha and then leave the Santa Cruz Trek. A side valley leads up to the Alpamayo Basecamp. We set ourselves up for the ascent and spend the night at campsite at 4,200m.
- Hiking time: 4 hours
- Elevation gain: ↑ 300m
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, tea time, dinner
- Accommodation: Tent
Day 5: Basecamp - Moraine Camp (4.900m)
For the donkeys today’s ascent is too steep and dangerous. From now on, all personal equipment has to be carried by itself and with help of the porters. In two stages, we bring the entire material to the moraine camp and at the same time adapt ourselves to the height.
- Hiking time: 6 hours
- Elevation gain: ↑↓ 700m
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, tea time, dinner
- Accommodation: Tent
Day 6: Moraine Camp - High Camp (5.300m)
The ascent to the high camp of the Alpamayos takes place via the nearby glacier. We set up our high camp with the best view to the Alpamayo. We prepare our equipment and go to bed early.
- Hiking time: 7 hours
- Elevation gain: ↑↓ 500
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, tea time, dinner
- Accommodation: Tent
Day 7: Summit Alpamayo
Already at night we start climbing the 5,947 m high summit. In the ascent, we climb over the Ferrari route. We start with 45 degrees and rises further up to 55 – 60 degrees. A short passage with about 70 degrees in the uppermost area represents the main difficulty. Over a narrow ridge, it goes to the main summit. However, depending on the conditions, we may have to change to the French route. In this case, the difficulties increase slightly.
- Hiking time: 6 – 8 hours
- Elevation gain: ↑↓ 500
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, tea time, dinner
- Accommodation: Tent
Day 8: Extra Day Alpamayo or optional climb Quitaraju (6.040 m)
This day is available as an extra day for the Alpamayo. Alternatively, the neighboring Quitaraju can be climbed over its 55 degrees steep north wall without fixed rope support. If possible, we will descend to base camp at 4.200m.
- Hiking time: 8 – 9 hours
- Elevation gain: ↑↓ 650, ↓ 1.450m
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, tea time, dinner
- Accommodation: Tent
Day 9: Return to Huaraz
Through the Santa Cruz Valley we hike back to Cashapampa (3,050 m). Our private transport brings us in another 2 hours back to Huaraz in the hotel, where we are allowed to recover.
- Hiking time: 6 hours
- Elevation gain: ↓ 1.450m
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch
- Accommodation: Tent
Day 10: Rest Day in Huaraz
Rest day in Huaraz. The day is at leisure.
- Meals included: Breakfast
- Accommodation: Tent
Day 11: Huaraz - Musho - Huascaran Basecamp
Today we start climbing the highest mountain of Peru, the Huascaran. In the morning we drive from Huaraz through the Huaylas Valley via Mancos to Musho, 60 km away (3,030 m). Here the luggage is loaded on the donkeys. We climb in serpentines past the Huascaran hut to about 4,400 m. Here we build our tent camp.
- Elevation gain: ↑ 1.600m
- Hiking time: 4 – 5 hours
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, tea time, dinner
- Accommodation: Tent
Days 12 - 16 Huascaran Climb
5 days are available for climbing through the Garganta with two high camps at about 5,100 m and at 5,900 m altitude. The summit stage starts again very early in the night. Depending on the circumstances, we will leave for the south or north summit around 2:00 am. First, the climb to the plateau. Here the path branches off to the shorter north or south summit. We reach the main summit of Huascaran through a veritable labyrinth of crevasses. Some steep slopes are insured with fixed ropes. Since the ascent depends heavily on the ice conditions on the mountain, it may be necessary to switch to alternative summits such as the Chopicalqui (6,354 m).
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, tea time, dinner
- Accommodation: Tent
Laguna Churup
Alpamayo
Huascaran
Camping
During the expedition, you spend the nights in two or three person tents.
Hotels
In Lima and Huaraz, you are accommodated in a double room in good middle class hotels. A single room is possible for a surcharge.
Meals
During the expedition we pay attention to a healthy and high-calorie diet. Breakfast and dinner are cooked warm. For lunch, a box lunch is served. We can prepare vegetarian dishes on request.
Luggage
Donkeys carry our equipment to basecamps. From basecamps up you need to carry your own personal gear and lunch box. Porters carry the group equipment. Extra porters can be hired on request.
Extra Day
In general, the extra day is used where it is necessary during the expedition. Mostly it is needed at the summit ascent of Huascaran. Depending on the conditions in the mountains, improvisation and changes to the itinerary can be necessary. Each participant must be ready to comply with the guide’s decisions. The decisions are made in the interest of the whole group.
Transport
For the route Lima-Huaraz-Lima we work together with the bus company Oltursa, which is a public bus of the highest category. The rest of the transports take place in minivans or comfortable 4×4 off-road vehicles, depending on the group size. On request and not included in the price, we can also organize a private transport for the route Lima-Huaraz-Lima or a flight (only in the morning).
Travel Documents
No visa is necessary for Peru. Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months after the return date.
Preparation meeting in Huaraz
There will be an information meeting in Huaraz. With the booking, you will receive detailed documents with all necessary information about the expedition. At the meeting, we will discuss again equipment, high altitude sickness, medication, snack provisions as well as the operation procedure in case of an emergency. Of course, we will also discuss any other questions you may have.
Insurance
Insurance (e.g. cancellation, health insurance for abroad, rescue costs, accident, repatriation, luggage) is the responsibility of every participant. Please check in your health and accident policy for “worldwide” option.
Packing list
Our recommendation
- Backpack
- Head torch (with spare batteries)
- Sandals
- Well-worn in hiking boots
- Down jacket
- Rain jacket or poncho
- Fleece or warm pullover
- Comfortable clothes (quick dry, merino)
- Trekking trousers
- Long thermal underwear (merino)
- Warm socks
- Cap, gloves
- Sunhat, sunglasses, sunscreen (min factor 40)
- Hiking poles
- Waterproof jacket and trousers (Gore-Tex)
- Very warm and waterproof gloves (Gore-Tex)
- Mountain goggles
- Mountain boots
- Crampons
- 2 technical ice axes
- Helmet
- Harness
- Carabiners
- Sleeping bag -10° comfort
- Toilet paper and wet wipes
- Personal medication travel kit
- Water bottle and water purification pills
- Extra Snacks (your favorite chocolate)
- Extra money
Frequenly asked questions
Which shoe is suitable for this expedition?
Suitable for high tours, ice climbing and expeditions. Shoes of this type have a special sole, which makes bending of the shoe almost impossible. In combination with the extremely stable workmanship and absolutely resistant to crampons. For use at higher altitudes, they are often still specially insulated.
Rental equipment or bring my own gear?
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