Character
Yanapaccha (5,460m) is one of the most accessible and rewarding climbs in the Cordillera Blanca, often completed in two days from Huaraz. It is considered an ideal “next step” for those who have some basic experience, or for very fit beginners looking for a challenge. It serves as a fantastic peak for acclimatization before tackling major objectives like Alpamayo or Huascaran. Although the approach is short, the climb itself is a true mountaineering experience, involving navigating crevasses and ascending a final, excitingly steep snow and ice face (up to 60-65 degrees). The summit rewards climbers with absolutely breathtaking, close-up views of Chopicalqui, Huascaran, Chacraraju, and Pisco.

Requirements
You must be in excellent health and have a very good level of fitness. While prior climbing experience is not mandatory, it is highly recommended. You need to be strong enough to carry your personal climbing gear and backpack to the moraine camp. This is a physically demanding climb due to the altitude and the steep final section, which will test your strength and endurance. You should not attempt this climb unless you are well-acclimatized. It is crucial to have spent several days at altitude (e.g., in Huaraz) and completed at least one or two acclimatization hikes (like Laguna 69 or Laguna Churup) before starting. Climbing over 5000m requires your body to be prepared for the lower oxygen levels.

Best Season
The prime climbing season for Yanapaccha is during the Andean dry season, from May to September. This period offers the most stable weather, with generally clear skies and sunny days. Conditions outside of these months can be unpredictable. Be prepared for cold temperatures, especially during the alpine start for the summit push. Night temperatures on the mountain can easily drop to -10°C (14°F).