Beginner Mountaineering Course

Overview
This 3-day course in the Cordillera Blanca includes training in the use of crampons and ice axes, crevasse rescue, rappelling, belaying, and the use of ice screws. The course typically concludes with an ascent of a 5,000m (16,400ft) peak, such as Vallunaraju or a similar summit..

Requirements

You are healthy and do not suffer from fear of heights. We classify this course as challenging due to the altitude as well as the steep ascent to base camp while carrying your own equipment. The course and all climbing instruction are also physically demanding. You must be strong enough to carry a medium-weight backpack up steep terrain.

You should only consider this course if you have above-average fitness and overall physical strength. It is important that you are well acclimatized beforehand in order to avoid potential problems such as lack of energy or altitude sickness while climbing. Climbing above 5,000 meters is physically demanding, even if the terrain is not steep or technically difficult.

On this ascent, you travel directly from Huaraz (3,090 m) to Moraine Camp (5,130 m), which means an altitude gain of 2,014 meters in a single day. It is therefore extremely important that you are already well acclimatized. We always recommend at least a 4-day trek for acclimatization.

Best Season
This course can be conducted year-round depending on mountain conditions. However, the best season for mountaineering in the Andes is from April to October, as the period in between is the rainy season. During this time, it is usually sunny and warm, although nights can be quite cold due to the altitude (down to -5°C).

What is included ?

Items that are included in the cost of tour price.

Transportation according to the tour program
Official and experienced mountain guide (Spanish / English)
Porter for group equipment
All meals during the course
Tent (2 or 3 persons)
Rope and group equipment
First aid kit and oxygen

What is not included?

Items that are not included in the cost of tour price.

First breakfast and last dinner
Personal equipment and personal expenses
Entrance fee to Huascarán National Park
Medical treatment
Return travel costs in case of early termination of the course
Travel accident and health insurance
Flights and hotel
Tips (optional)

Day 1: Huaraz – Llaca Valley – Moraine Camp

We drive east and uphill from Huaraz for about 1.5 hours on an unpaved road into the Llaca Valley (4,470 m). Here we put on our backpacks and begin a steep ascent of approximately 3 to 4 hours to Moraine Camp (5,000 m). The first two hours are on hard, steep terrain, after which the route becomes easier and gradually leads to the camp. Throughout the ascent, we enjoy breathtaking views of the nearby Nevado Ocshapalca, the city of Huaraz, and the Cordillera Negra. At night, the lights of Huaraz far below create a magical atmosphere from Moraine Camp. In the afternoon, we practice rope work, knots, and climbing techniques.

Day 2: Moraine Camp – Glacier – Moraine Camp

First, we climb for about 30 minutes over moraine rocks before reaching the glacier, where we receive a full day of instruction. Today we learn basic techniques and safety skills for first-time climbers or those with little mountaineering experience.

Day 3: Moraine Camp – Vallunaraju Summit – Moraine Camp – Huaraz

A long day begins as we start our ascent between 1:00 and 2:00 a.m., climbing over the moraine to reach the glacier. The ascent toward the summit (5,686 m) is steady but not very steep. The final 60 meters are steeper and more exposed. Here, you will practice and reinforce the techniques you have learned. After taking summit photos, we return to Moraine Camp to pack up our tents and descend into the Llaca Valley, where our transportation back to Huaraz will be waiting.

Camping
During the course, you will stay in two- or three-person tents.

Meals
During the expedition we pay attention to a healthy and high-calorie diet. Breakfast and dinner are cooked warm. For lunch, a box lunch is served. We can prepare vegetarian dishes on request.

Luggage

You must carry your personal equipment yourself. Group equipment (including tents and food) is carried by porters.

Transport
Transportation is provided in minibuses or comfortable 4×4 vehicles, depending on the group size.

Packing list

Our recommendation

Waterproof jacket and pants
Very warm, waterproof gloves
Balaclava or warm hat
Glacier sunglasses
Mountaineering boots compatible with crampons
Trekking or mountaineering backpack (50 L, or slightly smaller)
Crampons (12-point) – fitted to your boots with lever bindings
2 technical ice axes
Helmet
Climbing harness
Headlamp
Down jacket
Fleece jacket or sweater
Comfortable clothing (quick-drying, merino wool)
Trekking pants or sports leggings
Long thermal underwear
Warm trekking socks
Sun hat, sunglasses, sunscreen (minimum SPF 40)
Trekking poles
Sleeping bag rated to -10°C comfort
Toiletries and personal hygiene items
Toilet paper or wet wipes
Personal travel first aid kit
Water bottle or hydration system (at least 1.5 L)
Water purification tablets or system (e.g., Micropur)
Extra snacks (e.g., your favorite chocolate)
Some cash

Frequenly asked questions

Which shoes are suitable for this course?

Suitable shoes are those designed for high-altitude trekking, ice climbing, and expeditions. These types of boots have a special sole that makes bending the shoe nearly impossible. Combined with their extremely durable construction, they are highly torsion-resistant and therefore fully compatible with crampons. For use at higher altitudes, they are often additionally insulated. Depending on the type of boot, you may also need “regular” trekking shoes for the hike up to Moraine Camp.

Rental equipment or your own gear?

If you already have your own equipment, it definitely makes sense to bring it with you. If something is missing, it can be booked additionally.