Character
Tocllaraju is a spectacular pyramid-shaped peak that stands as one of the most aesthetic and sought-after climbs in the Ishinca Valley. It is considered a classic objective and an excellent choice for climbers looking to summit their first 6,000-meter peak, provided they have prior mountaineering experience. The route involves navigating a complex glacier with crevasses, overcoming a significant bergschrund (a large crevasse that separates the glacier from the steep upper face), and ascending a final, steep pitch of snow or ice (up to 60-70 degrees) to reach its famous “ice mushroom” summit. Although technically not extreme (graded PD+/AD-), its high altitude, technical final section, and long summit day make it a serious and physically demanding undertaking.
Requirements
Excellent physical condition and good health are essential. This climb is a significant step up from introductory peaks and requires more than just fitness. You must have prior experience in mountaineering, including:
Solid knowledge of roped glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques.
Experience climbing on steep snow and ice with crampons and two ice axes.
The ability to carry a backpack with personal and technical gear to a high camp (approx. 5,300m).
Proper acclimatization is absolutely critical for a safe and successful ascent of a 6,000-meter peak. It is highly recommended to have completed a multi-day acclimatization trek and to have summited a lower peak first, such as Ishinca (5,530m) or Urus (5,495m), from the same base camp before attempting Tocllaraju.
Best Season
The best and most stable climbing season is during the Andean dry season, from May to September. This period generally offers clear skies, sunny days, and more predictable weather conditions. However, climbers should always be prepared for changing conditions. Due to the high altitude, night temperatures on the mountain can be very cold, often dropping to -10°C or -15°C (14°F to 5°F), especially during the summit push.
What is included in this tour?
Items that are included in the cost of tour price.
- Transports according to itinerary
- Qualified and experienced guide (Spanish/English)
- Porter for group equipment
- All meals during the climb
- Good quality high mountain tent (2 or 3 person)
- Ropes and group equipment
- Cooking utensils
- First aid kit and oxygen
What is included in this tour?
Items that are not included in the cost of tour price.
- First breakfast, last dinner
- Personal equipment
- Bottled water, alcoholic drinks
- Entrance fees to Huascaran National Park
- Medical care and insurance
- Emergency rescue or evacuation
- Travel insurance
- Hotel
- Flights
- Tips (optional)
Day 1: Huaraz - Moraine Camp
Day 1: Huaraz - Moraine Camp
Day 1: Huaraz - Moraine Camp
Day 1: Huaraz - Moraine Camp
Tocllaraju Climbing
Equipment
Please read carefully through the required equipment list for a 6,000-meter peak. Missing or specialized gear such as double boots, harnesses, or ice axes can be rented from us or in Huaraz. Your guide will conduct a thorough gear check with you before departure to ensure you are properly equipped for the climb.
Meals
Our cook will prepare energizing, high-calorie meals essential for performance at high altitude. This includes hot breakfasts and dinners at the camps, and a packed lunch (box lunch) for the trail. We can accommodate special dietary requests, such as vegetarian meals, if notified in advance.
Transport
We use private transport (minivan or 4×4 vehicle, depending on group size) to take you from Huaraz to the trailhead at Pashpa, in the Ishinca Valley. The same transport will be waiting for you at the end of the expedition for your return to Huaraz.
Logistics: Porters & Donkeys
For the approach to Ishinca Base Camp, we use donkeys and arrieros (donkey drivers) to carry all group equipment (tents, food, ropes) and your personal duffel bag. You will only need to hike with a light daypack. For the ascent from Base Camp to Moraine Camp (High Camp), we use high-altitude porters to carry the group’s technical equipment and tents. You will be responsible for carrying your personal backpack containing your climbing gear, extra layers, water, and snacks.
Packing list
Our recommendation
- Mountain backpack (40 liters)
- Sleeping bag (-25 C)
- Walking sticks if you have knee problems
- Mountain boots
- Gaiters
- Crampons
- Ice axes
- Helmet
- Harness
- Head torch (with spare batteries)
- Sun protection: sunscreen (factor 40 minimum), hat, sunglasses
- Well-worn in hiking boots or trekking shoes
- Comfortable clothes: t-shirts (quick dry or merino wool recommended), trekking trousers or leggings, sweater, woolen trekking socks, underwear, long thermal underwear, fleece, gloves, hat
- Down jacket
- Waterproof jacket and trousers (Gore-Tex recommended)
- Gore-Tex gloves
- Water bottle and water purification pills
- Toilet paper, personal toiletries, small towel
- Extra snacks and money
Frequenly asked questions
How heavy is my backpack for this climb?
When walking out to moraine camp, you will need to carry around 15kg which includes personal gear and some food. Your guide will be checking the contents of your pack before you leave the office on your climbing day.
Can I leave my extra bags and valuables with you while we are in the mountains? When walking out to moraine camp, you wi
Yes, no problem. We have storage for anything you aren’t taking on your climb.
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